| Buying
Techniques: Sharp Reader Offers Suggestions for Future Publication
If anyone were to ask me where to start the buying process, I would
suggest that they get the latest Trailer Life Buyer's Guide and use
it in conjunction with your RV Rating Book. The "Buyer's Guide"
really is not a guide book, but full of facts, typical prices, and sample
floor plans. Then, after checking the rating book, use the reply card
that comes with the buyer's guide to obtain literature on units the
buyer might be interested in. After this, they would be much better
equipped to visit dealers and RV shows, using the procedures given in
your new book.
As your book stands now, there is no mention of buying "factory
direct". A short section on dealing with these factory direct people
might also be in order. The key as I gather it from others, is to have
everything in writing before the order is finalized. Later changes ruin
the relationships.
Rallies: You wrote a lot about why
one should not buy at an RV show. From what I have seen of regional
and national rallies, these are a totally different scene. Most of the
crackerbox RV's are not even present. Dealers send only their best salesmen,
and there is instant competition. Sometimes factory reps are present.
I attended one regional rally where there were six dealers all lined
up, about fifty feet apart. They expected you to get competitive quotes
from the others and they could see you doing it. There were also special
factory rebates for units bought at the show, a minimum of $1,000.
I have attended two FMCA regional rallies (the public can attend
for $5 per day) and found opening day to be a great time to snoop. I
gather literature immediately, then go sit in a nice rig and start to
read. As I am reading, I find that many present and former owners of
that line will come through and make some very revealing comments.
Factory Tours: Here are some added
touches I add to factory visits. I try to arrive about 15 minutes early.
We are often sent to a customer's lounge where owners are waiting for
repairs. Talks with them can be very informative. In particular I try
to find our how long they had to wait to get their rig into the shop.
For a particular brand, it was at least four months a few years ago.
This made for some unhappy full-timers.
At the start of the tour, we ask the guide to be sure to point
out inspection and quality control measures. During the tour I sometimes
pick up (with permission) scraps of materials. Not all vinyl wrap is
the same.
At the end of the tours, I ask about owner's club literature. These
give some indication of owner loyalty. Some manufacturers periodically
publish a list of repair shops they recommend.
While on the subject of factory tours, you might point out that
RV owners, especially motor home owners, frequently have to take their
rigs to the factory for major repairs. If all else is equal, I would
suggest purchasing an RV made near home or in an area convenient to
visit.
Travel Trailer Hitches: On Page 133
you refer to "fixed ball" hitches. I think you are trying to say that
the only hitches that truly eliminate sway are the Pull-Rite and the
Hensley. I have a Hensley and I agree. I have also found that most dealers
have never seen a Hensley and few handle the Pull-Rite. Camping World
has dropped the Pull-Rite from their catalog and Hensley has no dealers.
I suggest you lay it out clearly, either in the text or glossary.
Inspections: I don't recall mention
of the need to access certain areas. Coach batteries are the first item
to come to mind. You might point out that all cells need to be checked
monthly and there needs to be enough clearance to add water. The water
pump is another item. During two winters we used our rig as a sort of
ski cabin and had to winterize every weekend. Easy access to our pump
was a real lifesaver. The other items that are often obscured are the
waste valves, the motive power for the slide mechanisms, and the DC
power converters. I for one am not impressed with RV's that use cables
for the slideout mechanisms, especially if I can't get at the cables.
Interior Comfort: When discussing
RV's with potential RVers, I strongly suggest that they spend lots of
time checking out how comfortable they are just relaxing inside the
RV. Will they really be comfortable sitting inside all day during a
storm or watching a long movie? Is the TV viewing angle comfortable?
Placing the TV over the driver is not only unsafe, it can also lead
to a pain in the neck. Very few RVs have adequate lights. I suggest
they check on how hard it would be to add better lights.
I don't recall a strong warning to check bed size, especially length.
We both know that most RV beds are shorter than the standards for a
queen or king size bed.
Kitchens: We like to apply our "silverware
test." Too many units have no logical place for a tray of silverware.
This is the most frequently accessed spot in the kitchen. It should
be easy to access. If we find one, we sometimes find it covered when
the slides are retracted, no good when making a quick lunch stop. The
electrical outlets should also be convenient in the kitchen area. They
should also be sure the cabinets are deep enough, at least enough to
allow dinner plates to be flat.
Baths: I have seen a number of units
where the glass shower doors are not well secured, just waiting for
a chance to slam and break when the coach comes to a sudden stop.
Design Goofs: I am a light sleeper.
I saw a trailer where the converter was directly under the pillows in
the bedroom. I have also seen water pumps near the head of the bed.
Not good in my opinion.
One manufacturer offered me a trailer with the fresh water tank
above the floor and under the bed at the very rear of the RV. I found a motor home manufacturer who does this on several of their RVso. I consider this a serious design flaw.
Weight Limitations: I know you like
to write about the dangers of being overweight. Here is another argument.
We recently had the tread pull off the trailer tire. We kept the tread
and turned it into the dealer along with the tire. As part of our claim
for damage ($500.00) to the trailer, we had to obtain weighings showing
that we had not oveloaded the tires. If we had been over, we would have
had no claim. We have heard many stories from others about tread coming
off.
These are just a few suggestions for your future editions. Keep
up the good work.
Carter Harrison, Texas
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